We just returned from a quick but memorable trip to Shikoku. We stayed at Kotohira Kadan for our first night since it's conveniently situated to enjoy some of the finest Sanuki Udon noodle restaurants in the area (we chose not to explore Kotohira-gu (aka ”Konpira-san”) - that will be reserved for a next visit.) While we enjoy modern rooms as much as the next person, we also appreciate traditional architecture, furnishings and decor... and Chouseiden (長生殿), Kotohira Kadan's top room, oozed history and tradition in a way that left us with a lasting impression. Chouseiden is one of a handful of stand-alone villas at the ryokan, and was inhabited by the local Lord many years ago. It's also liberally adorned with the art collection of the original owner Kotohira Kadan, including ancient folding screens, sliding doors and hanging scrolls that were produced by famous artists. It's so history-laden that it is bound to creep some people out... I don't think Mrs. KI-NRT would ever choose to live in such a room, but as an ”experience” it was well worth the privilege of trying out Chouseiden. It does have the comforts of a modern ryokan/hotel, such as toilets with washlets, fast WiFi and Western-style beds, and boasts 152m² of total living space, which is generous by any definition of a flagship ryokan room. The only drawback was the lack of a private Onsen (natural hot springs) bath in the room - something we've come to expect at top-level ryokans, at least (and especially) in their top rooms. Some of the standard rooms do offer in-room Onsen baths, however, which might tip the scales to the non-villa rooms' favor for some people. As a consolation, Kotohira Kadan offers the use of their private bath (which can be rented out by the hour), and it's free for guests staying at one of the Hanare Villa rooms. Food was served in our room, and it was a delight. While it's not the best ryokan meal we've ever had, we appreciated the efforts taken by the kitchen staff to offer seasonal and local dishes that gave us a good taste of Kagawa. In particular, the deep-fried Pike Conger with simmered vegetables doused in a dashi broth was unique and flavorful, as well as the Red Sea Bream Shabu Shabu (Hot Pot.) Breakfast was also varied and bountiful, although nothing really blew us away, which is just as well, since we were planning to go on an Udon tasting expedition beginning later that morning. The grounds are not massive, but there's a pretty little pond with some interesting vegetation around it. And the architecture of the Hanare Villas (including Chouseiden) give Kotohira Kadan a real sense of place given its proximity to Kotohira-gu. Keep in mind that the property is quite large when it comes to room count (43 total), so there may be some walking between your room and the main reception and lounge areas (from Chouseiden, you'll need to walk outside for a short distance - fine if the weather is cooperating.) Service is not up to the standards set by top luxury r
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